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November 20, 2022

I Adore French Wine And Meals – A 2007 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau

Wine people talk about vintages the way most of us never talk about food — a particular year, a particular slope of a hill, a harvest that came in slightly wetter or drier than usual, and how all of that shows up in the glass. Dates go through the same thing every season, just with almost nobody writing it down.

A harvest is a vintage too

Piarom and Mariami both change noticeably from one harvest to the next. A drier growing season concentrates the sugars more and the dates come out firmer, closer to chewy than soft. A wetter one softens them earlier and the sweetness reads less intense per bite even though the fruit is riper. Anyone who buys the same variety every year eventually notices this without being told — one batch needs no soaking before you'd blend it into anything, the next benefits from sitting at room temperature a day before eating.

Grade adds another layer on top of the season. Within the same harvest, the larger, less blemished pieces get sorted out as a higher grade, and the difference in texture between a top-grade piece and an ordinary one from the same batch can be as noticeable as the difference between two separate years.

Treating it like a meal, not a snack

The French habit of putting real thought into what's on the table — noticing texture, noticing how something changes from one year to the next — translates fine to dates. A few Piarom with strong coffee after a meal, or Mariami alongside plain yogurt, gives the fruit room to actually be tasted rather than eaten on the way out the door.

If you want to compare a batch for yourself, our current Mariami stock lists grade and origin for what's available this season.